Inside the Angry family’s factory I could witness the entire creation process of high manufacture jewels, from concept, drawing on paper to final polishing. As you may know, not all goldsmiths or jewellery companies, not even those based in the so-called city of gold Valenza, can make the entire production process of jewels in-house; that’s why producers join in powerful syndicates and every stage of production is entrusted to the best specialists. Angry’s whole production is made in-house: concept, prototyping, engineering, casting, manufacturing, setting, polishing and finally quality control.
Fabio’s sketches, samples and drawings are what I first admired when I entered the magical world of Angry’s brand. I met Fabio a thousand times in worldwide fairs and I wore his wonderful jewels as many times, but I never had the chance to see his drawings before. He is a true artist. He graduated from fine arts high school and specialized in jewellery design. He signed the brand’s first animalier collection.
It all starts with a 2D hand drawing, then it’s transferred on a 3D drawing. Two young goldsmiths, who know the “banquet technique”, have become CAD/CAM specialists; they put Fabio’s jewels in 3D and divide it into several elements that need to be assembled before becoming an outstanding product. Once the 3D prototype of the jewel is ready on the computer, wax moulds of linear elements are printed, while the other moulds are handmade by wax model makers (the “banquet technique” is often used). At this point the different elements of the jewel are handmade. Experience, excellence and artistic creativity are key requirements in this part of the process.
Try to imagine thousands of sometimes tiny gemstones of different colours being set to obtain the desired design or effect. They gaze through the microscope and from time to time have a look at the drawing at their side; as they operate, they put the finishing touch to the jewel. The head of gem setters Daniele posts photos and videos of their wonders on Instagram every day; follow him at @didodani1975 and let yourself be amazed.
Next week I’m going to post photos of the most beautiful jewels I worn. From the design concept to the finished jewel, an incomparable piece that makes every woman dream.